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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.